07/19 to 07/20 National Monuments

 07/19 to 07/20

To Devils Tower/Black Hills KOA

Devils Tower, Wyoming

Now this was an excursion that impressed even me. Little did I now when setting off from Rapid City, SD, that the timing was such that I could stop, visit, learn and take photos of not one but three National Monuments. The fourth monument visited, Crazy Horse, is a privately funded and managed memorial located in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The monument, which has been under construction since 1948, honors the Lakota leader Crazy Horse and aims to celebrate Native American culture. When completed, it will be the world's largest sculpture. Like all terms or words highlighted in RED, I suggest checking them out for the stories behind the creation or the special attraction if has become. There's just too much.

After days driving into the horizon, the terrain took on a different complexion and was a welcome sight but with it came a new awareness. No longer in the flatlands, the route was winding as well as hilly, sometimes with elevations changing by 1,000 feet. Warnings galore for sharp turns and steep hills. The elevation at Mount Rushmore is 5,725'.

6% and sometimes 7% or even 9% grades required full attention for both steering and braking.

This slope eases into a curve. Most others are sharper and more slow going...like 35 mph.

Gone were the rolling flat carpets of green croplands.

Pines dotted and dominated the landscape now and...

...the soil is red primarily due to iron oxide of the underlying bedrock. Over time, weathering processes break down rock and minerals releasing iron that then oxidizes (like rust) and give the reddish color.

And then there were the buttes. This one is Red Butte that borders on the Black Hill National Forest. Buttes are isolated, flat-topped hills with steep, often vertical sides. They are formed through the process of erosion, where softer rock and soil around a harder caprock are worn away over time by wind and water, leaving the more resistant rock standing alone. The caprock on this one is most noticeable along SR-16.. 

I've decided to change the format of this blog somewhat in the interest of time, hoping to keep it short and sweet. Maybe some little known facts will be included. Of the many photos taken at each stop, only a few will be shared, And, should the reader care to learn more about each National Monument, links will be noted in red. 

Mount Rushmore National Monument

The four presidents were chosen to represent different aspects of American history: George Washington for the nation's founding, Thomas Jefferson for expansion (Louisiana Purchase), Theodore Roosevelt for development (Panama Canal, economic growth), and Abraham Lincoln for preservation (Civil War and abolition of slavery).

Drive by point and click. Couldn't stop and ask them to move.

Miner's Gateway Tunnel on the way to Mt. Rushmore

Before even reaching the Park, I came around the bend and bam! There it was. Already an impressive sight.

Mount Rushmore was sculpted by Gutzon Borglum, an American sculptor. Borglum began the project in 1927 and worked on it until his death in 1941. After his death, his son, Lincoln Borglum, took over and oversaw the completion of the project. The Mount Rushmore National Memorial was officially deemed complete on October 31, 1941, Read about his "wild and controversial life" HERE.

After paying $5.00 (senior discount) and parking my RV, the walk up a bunch of stairs greets you with this impressive sight. I asked a Ranger why my Lifetime Senior Pass didn't give me free parking to this National Monument. Answer? Parking is handled by an outside company, not by the National Park Service.

Before the 450,000 tons of rock were blasted away. The finished carving would be 400' wide and 500' high.

The original design.

The original design included the presidents from the waist up, but due to lack of funding and the onset of World War II, the project was left incomplete in 1941. As a result, only the faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln were completed. 

Their measurements are impressive. From chin to top of head: 60 feet. Noses are about 21 feet long. Each eye is about 11 feet wide and the mouth about 18 feet wide.

Nearby is the rock formation called, The Needles. The initial idea for Mount Rushmore was proposed by Doane Robinson, a South Dakota historian, to promote tourism. His original idea was to carve the Needles, a different granite formation, with the images of famous Western figures like Lewis and Clark, Buffalo Bill Cody, and Lakota leader Red Cloud.

Crazy Horse Monument

Continuing my journey to Billings, MT, 17-miles further along highway through the beautiful and scenic Black Hills of South Dakota,  I came upon the Crazy Horse Monument or Memorial. 

As you drive up the hill to the fee station, the view is jaw dropping.

And from this point forward, you cannot stop snapping pictures.

The idea for the monument originated from Henry Standing Bear, a Lakota elder, who wanted to honor Native American heroes. He reached out to sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski in 1939, who had worked on Mount Rushmore. Read his fascinating story via the link above. Ziolkowski dedicated his life to the project, and after his death in 1982, his wife Ruth and seven of their ten children continued the work. Today, the project is overseen by the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, with the Ziolkowski family still heavily involved. In the beginning, he turned down a $10 million grant from the government for his work not wanting the government to get involved and to maintain his independence.

Once completed, the Crazy Horse Monument will be the world's largest sculpture, standing 563 feet high and 641 feet long. By comparison, all four heads on Mount Rushmore could fit inside just Crazy Horse's head.

Work on the monument began in 1948 and has been ongoing for over 70 years. The slow progress is due to the scale of the project, the difficulty of the work, and reliance on private funding.

For a $5.00 fee there's a short bus tour that will take you up to the base of the monument. The heat of the day and the drive ahead prevented me from taking advantage.

THE INDIAN MUSEUM OF NORTH AMERICA® is home to a large collection of art and artifacts reflecting the diverse histories and cultures of the American Indian people.

Closed when I arrived just before 10 a.m.

The depiction of Crazy Horse is symbolic. He is shown with his arm outstretched, pointing forward, representing his famous quote, "My lands are where my dead lie buried," emphasizing the importance of the land to the Native American people.

Print will be too small for your viewing. Here's what I've researched:

Height: The sculpture of Crazy Horse will stand at 563 feet (171.8 meters) tall.

Length: The monument will be 641 feet (195.4 meters) long.

Face of Crazy Horse: The face alone, completed in 1998, measures 87.5 feet (26.7 meters) tall.

Horse's Head: The horse's head is planned to be 219 feet (66.8 meters) high.

Scale Comparison: For perspective, the heads on Mount Rushmore are each about 60 feet (18.3 meters) tall, meaning the entire Mount Rushmore sculpture could fit inside the head of Crazy Horse.

Outstretched Arm: Crazy Horse's outstretched arm will be approximately 263 feet (80.2 meters) long.

Material Removed: To date, millions of tons of rock have been blasted and removed to carve out the initial shapes and details of the monument.

Progress: While the face is completed, work continues on the horse’s head and other parts of the sculpture, with no set completion date due to the project's complexity and reliance on private funding.

Artifacts and tools used originally.

A fond farewell to a most impressive on-going project

Jewel Cave National Monument

Continuing my travels toward Devils Tower in Devils Tower, Wyoming, my third stop of the day was just 17 miles from Crazy Horse. Jewel Cave is recognized as the third longest cave (215 miles mapped so far) in the world. Airflow within its passages indicates a vast area yet to be explored. Cave tours provide opportunities for viewing this pristine cave system and its wide variety of speleothems including stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, frostwork, flowstone, boxwork and hydromagnesite balloons. The cave is an important hibernaculum for several species of bats.

 

The Scenic Tour is moderately strenuous, lasts 1 hour and 20 minutes, and involves 734 stair steps. As much as I love touring caves (7 so far), I respectfully declined this one).

Take the 3-minute VIDEO TOUR and see why I'm glad I passed on this one.

With over 215 miles of mapped passages, and exploration continues to discover new areas.

Very inexpensive fees for your choice of four different tours: The Discovery Tour, $3.00, the Scenic Tour, $16.00, the Historic Lantern Tour, $16.00 and the Wild Cave Tour, $45.00

The cave's strong airflow is one of its most notable features. The air pressure difference between the cave and the surface causes air to rush in or out of the cave's entrance, making it feel like a natural air conditioning system.

Devils Tower National Monument

The end of a long drive, multiple stops and the anticipation of seeing the Devils Tower in person invigorated my spirits and made for an exciting ride. The route I took, through Sundance, WY was SR-14. The drive went from 3,000 to 4,000 feet in elevation through the Black Hills National Forest and with that, winding curves and steep inclines and descents.

As I made my descent down the winding road, I glanced to my left and there it was. Another WOW moment just like that upon seeing Mr. Rushmore from a distance. This sight, fifteen miles away. Fortunately, a pull out at the right moment and location gave me my first view of the sacred Devils Tower or as many Native American tribes refer to it as "Bear Lodge", "Tree Rock" and "Bear's Tipi. The Tower remains an important site for prayer and rituals.

So let the photos begin! Once again, the sight of this natural wonder causes the non-stop picture taking in hopes of capturing the perfect shot. That's what I did. These are the most picturesque but to break the boredom, I've added captions of the facts I've researched and learned.

Devils Tower was declared America's first National Monument by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906. It could actually be called America's first natural monument as it is actually the core of a volcano exposed after millions of years of erosion brought on by the Belle Fourche River and weather. The rock monolith rises over 1,000 feet above the river valley. 

Devils Tower is an igneous rock formation known as a laccolith, which means it was formed by molten magma forced into sedimentary rock layers, causing it to bulge upward. Over time, the softer surrounding rock eroded away, leaving the harder rock of the tower.

The first known ascent was made by William Rogers and Willard Ripley on July 4, 1893, using a wooden ladder.

The Tower was a key location in Steven Spielberg's 1977 science fiction film "Close Encounters of the Third Kind."

For those interested in how the Tower was formed. Visit THIS SITE from the National Park Service. It's truly amazing. It all started about 50 million years ago.

And what an unexpected surprise it was that at the end of my descent, the KOA Campground was right there at the base. Had I kept going straight I would have entered the National Park. I visited the park the next day when leaving for Billings, Wyoming for my next overnight.

This was as close as I could get with my extended lens. The tower is notable for its striking hexagonal columns, which are among the largest and most distinct in the world. These columns were formed by the cooling and contraction of the magma. The tower stands 867 feet from its base to the summit and rises 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River. Its base circumference is about 1 mile.

My shaded site was close to the store and restaurant. By the time I was settled and ready for dinner it was too late; the cafe closed at 5 pm. I did get my decal and cup (2 scoops) of butter pecan ice cream so I was a happy camper. (It lasted 3 days)

The next day, I drove into the park. A long winding road to the base. As the sun rose directly above and behind the Tower, I was unable to get any morning shots. This is a close up from a different angle on my way out of the Park. Numerous Native American tribes have legends associated with Devils Tower. One common story tells of a group of girls who were chased by giant bears. To save them, the Great Spirit raised the ground beneath them, creating the Tower. The bears' claws left the deep grooves seen on its sides.

Finally, looking back, I had to take one last "parting shot." A last glance from a different angle and still an awesome sight that will leave a lasting impression. Out of respect for the cultural significance of the tower to Native American tribes, the National Park Service asks climbers to voluntarily refrain from climbing during the month of June, when many tribal ceremonies take place.

Well, I think I packed a lot into one day. I hope you enjoyed the tour. I'm so glad I'll have these "recollections" in the future to look back upon. But the journey continues. My next stop is in Billings, Montana for an overnight and then on to Yellowstone Park/West Gate. Hope you'll join me. I enjoy reading your comments; leave some. So far, if the upper mid-west isn't on your bucket list, put it there. The drives may be a bit trying but the destinations are all worth it. Stay cool and safe. 

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." – Marcel Proust