Friday, July 19, 2024

07/17 to 07/19 Bismarck ND & Rapid City SD

07/17 to 07/18

To Bismarck KOA

Bismarck, North Dakota  


Another terrific day of driving with the same impressions and comments as my last blog. Straight to the horizon the entire trip; first, west on route 2 for two hours to stop and stand on the geographic center of North America in Rugby, ND. Then, at that intersection, I headed south on route 3 for another two hours before going west again on Interstate 94 to Bismarck. 

The claim that Rugby, North Dakota, is the geographic center of North America was made in 1931 by the U.S. Geological Survey. This determination was based on a balancing method using a cutout of the continent.

This monument was erected in 1931 to mark the spot. The stone obelisk, which stands 21 feet tall, is located at the intersection of U.S. Highway 2 and North Dakota Highway 3.

I added this photo to authenticate my presence. The exact center's location has been a subject of debate. Some newer methods and calculations suggest that the true center may lie elsewhere in North Dakota, but Rugby's claim remains the most widely recognized and celebrated.

Having added this accomplishment to my achievements, I've now added visiting the center of the Continental United States including Alaska and Hawaii which is in Belle Fourche, South Dakota. This site is on my way to Devils Tower in Wyoming. On my way back east, I'll visit the center of the United States prior to Alaska and Hawaii joining the Union. That site is in Lebanon, Kansas. Neither of them were planned or ever on my bucket list. 

The "point and shoot" photos that follow were taken on my way to Bismarck, ND. Bug splats on windshield may effect their perfection.

This pleasant view of the tree line highway would soon give way to what I've become accustomed to as you'll see. The drives each day have seen very little traffic and the weather perfect.


Speed limit 75? The most I would do is 65. 55 mph gives be the greatest fuel economy of about 15 miles/gallon. But, as they say (maybe Bob Dylan?), "the only way to to there from here is to go."

Where it's all stored and then shipped...whatever it is


I couldn't get the whole vehicle but this semi was delivering a 150' blade for a wind turbine.
This from the Internet

A couple of lane closures along the way for shoulder work. At this site, a small dozer needed help from his big brother road grader to get pulled out of the muck. 

A graveyard for retired school buses?



In my previous trips cross country, I remember going over the Continental Divide. It does not pass through North Dakota. So when I saw these signs a couple of times, I couldn't wait to do my research. The Continental Divide, also known as the Great Divide, primarily runs through the Rocky Mountains and defines the boundary between watersheds that drain into the Pacific Ocean and those that drain into the Atlantic Ocean. In the United States, the Continental Divide extends from Alaska, down through Canada, into the contiguous United States via Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico. It does not traverse North Dakota.

Instead, North Dakota is located east of the Continental Divide, and its waters drain into the Gulf of Mexico via the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. The road sign on Route 3 in North Dakota signifying the Continental Divide is referring to the Laurentian Divide, not the Continental Divide of the Americas. The Laurentian Divide, also known as the Northern Divide, separates the watershed areas where water flows northward into the Arctic Ocean from those where water flows southward into the Gulf of Mexico. Ah. Now I can rest easy.

At last, I arrived. 4 hours and some 200+ miles. Time for a G&T.
Like all KOAs, the site was fine. Plenty of trees and just water and electric. As an overnighter, nothing was hooked up and the awning remained in. Tomorrow, an early start involves, pulling the plug and stowing my levelers. Easy-peasy.

Once again, theses photos, taken at 9:45 p.m. amazed me.

And so, nighty-night.

A full day today with lots of sights and impressionable wonder. Tomorrow, a 5-hour driving day with hopes of gas stations along the way. 

07/18 to 07/19

To Rapid City/Black Hills KOA

Rapid City, South Dakota

5 hours - 300 miles

Today's ride to South Dakota was a long one with two fuel stops. The only downside being the continuous straight, flat drive into horizon and then into another. The gentle rolling hills into the distance rose eventually to an elevation of about 3,000 feet.


However, the WOWs continued as I pondered the immensity of land being owned and farmed by someone. The ranches along the highway had only a dirt road, the end of which could not be seen from the highway. A solitary mailbox was the only proof that the ranch was somewhere beyond view. Spotted black clusters seen amidst the green covered land turned out to be herds of black Angus and Herefords. Interesting how they remain clumped. Grass/hay once again, cut, rolled and baled were everywhere. 

My research showed that in North Dakota, the average farm size is approximately 1,512 acres. This large size is due to the state's emphasis on crops like wheat, corn, soybeans, and canola, which require extensive land. In South Dakota, the average farm size is around 1,442 acres. South Dakota also has large agricultural operations focusing on crops such as corn, soybeans, and wheat, as well as livestock ranching. Then the questions arose: what was it like laying out and building the roads? And today? How far do crews have to come to do work anywhere along the highway? And the settlers? How could they possibly have subsisted on this land. And the winters? Just amazing.

Checking my route, I was excited to see the geographic center of all 50 states, including Alaska and Hawaii was located near Belle Fourche, South Dakota, which was on my way to the KOA in Rapid City, SD. Having seen the center of North America yesterday, this detour was a must. Photos taken along the way follow:
I came upon this eye-catching invitation on I-94 to detour...

...at exit 72 to view...


...The Enchanted Highway "Geese in Flight," (110 feet tall and 150 feet wide) is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's largest scrap metal sculpture. The Enchanted Highway was conceived by Gary Greff, a former schoolteacher and principal from Regent, North Dakota. Concerned about the decline of his small town and the lack of tourism, Greff sought a way to attract visitors and stimulate the local economy. In the early 1990s, he came up with the idea of creating large metal sculptures to draw tourists to the area. The first sculpture, "Geese in Flight," was completed in 1991. Visit the link above and see the ten creations seen along the route (with no number) connecting Regent to Gladstone, ND . In 2012, he opened the Enchanted Castle, a hotel and restaurant in Regent, to provide accommodations for visitors and further promote tourism in the area.

With the thousands of acres of farmland, you can generally guess where the homestead is by looking for a cluster of trees. 

I thought this collection of round bales or hay rolls made for a nice photo, except for the bug splat. These bales are cylindrical in shape and can vary in size, typically ranging from 4 to 6 feet in diameter and weighing several hundred to over a thousand pounds. Round bales are popular in modern farming because they are easier to handle with machinery and can be stored outside with less spoilage compared to square bales. 



As I drove further south, the terrain began to change.



I believe this is Bear Butte, a geological laccolith. Laccoliths are geological formations that results from the intrusion of magma into sedimentary rock layers, causing the overlying strata to bulge upward and form a dome-like structure. Probably what I'll find when I research Devils Tower. (Thank you, Internet)

These half-rectangular wooden structures were common sights along my route. Why were they in that particular spot and always having one side face north-south, the other east-west. Researched: Snow fences are used to control the drifting and blowing of snow, primarily to keep roads, railways, and farm fields clear. By disrupting the wind flow, snow fences cause the snow to drop in a controlled manner, preventing it from piling up in unwanted areas. These structures are particularly important in regions with heavy snowfall and strong winds, like the Dakotas. 

And there it was. Part two of my being in the center of the continent and the center of the good ol' USA. Anticipation ran high.


Well, I drove those 20 miles "north of town", the opposite direction I wanted to continue. That 8 mile sign was for another route I probably should have taken. The one lane, washboard, unpaved, dry, dusty road shook, rattled and rolled ol' Winnie such that I thought parts would come flying off as seen in my young TV cartoon days. The anticipation turned to second thoughts and doubt when no other vehicle was on the road coming or going. I was the only one. Nothing for miles around. Where was the big sign telling the world where they were? Where's the parking area? The gift shop? Instead, my Garmin announced, "You have arrived at your destination." And this is was what was at the side of the road to greet me.


It is said that this isn't even the site. The site is on the other side of the fence on private property. That farmer didn't object to people coming over the fence onto his property as long as they were okay with the rattlesnakes.

Then, to add insult to injury, the only way back to the main highway was to continue on this god-forsaken washboard north at no more than 35 mph for another 20 miles. From there, I continued south to my destination having lost at least an hour and 50 miles.

The Rapid City/Black Hills KOA is a huge campground with all sites occupied. My back in site #45 served its purpose: plenty of shade with the temperature of the day hovering in the 90's.

I was just there for the overnight and, after that day of driving, I tried to play catch-up with photos and the narrative to share my day via this blog. Oh, and the G&T was cold and refreshing.

The quote for today's blog is from Robert Frost. While leaving "the TRUE center of the nation," I repeated it quite often.
 
The best way out is always through."
Robert Frost

11 comments:

  1. What more to say than a terrific blog sprinkled with History and facts. Amazing pictures. Once again thanks for taking me along.!!!
    Hmmm, no photos of nice restaurants and suburb cuisine?? Don't they eat out there? LOL. Stay safe, J

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    1. Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. Working on the National Monuments blog next. No, no dining out these days. All overnight stays from here on in. Besides, its much better with friends, right?

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  2. So where IS the center of the US? Looks like we have several choices, but wherever it is, you were there! Getting close to your goal. Happy trails to you…

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    1. Good point. Wherever it is, I was there. Gotta get that one in Lebanon, Kansas though. Thanks for you well wishes.

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  3. Great photos. More driving than I do in a lifetime!
    BJ

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    1. Ha. And thanks. As for driving: 3,188 miles so far and I haven't even reached Washington State. Then, there's the trip back to Pennsylvania.

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  4. My quote would be "The best way out is never going in in the first place." LOL My recollection of the Dakotas (both North and South) was that if you went into a restaurant (and not many of those) they didn't serve (or even have available) milk/cream for your coffee--just "Creamora!" When I asked for the real thing, they looked at me like I was from another planet. Weird. Guess they don't have any cows out there--just steers for beef. Well, only 4 states to go to finish your map. XO
    D

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    1. Nice quote but...How you gonna know what's in there if you never go? Yes, 4 states to go. Actually, I'm in Montana now, so there's 3. Exciting. Stay cool and safe.

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  5. Well, this blog really knocks your socks off and gives me a sense of the wide-open plains and expanses of land that stretch from our Atlantic to the Pacific. So much here. I'll limit my comments to what impressed me the most: the Cont'l Divide (or you go your way, and I'll go mine), the Enchanted Highway and how one schoolteacher brought tourism to his small town (now that is what I call American ingenuity), the Snow Fences (I would have thought ETs were here and left their mark), and most of all - the center of the U.S. counting Alaska and Hawaii but what is the center without those two add-ons, I wonder). Most all of all, that EOD (end of day) you made time for some G&Ts. I'm sure you toasted those back home. You know who I mean. Yes, J. is right. What, no restaurants? no hotdog stands? no 7-11s? no Instacart? How do people eat? Well, hugs. Onward and outward. Whadda trip. S

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  6. My favorite part was learning about the multiple Continental Divide. I thought the only one was in Colorado.

    Also, big educational lesson was the two different divides. After reading, it made some sense that snow melt had to run into the Gulf, but never considered the Arctic Ocean. Thanks for the info. I feel even smarter than before. Lol.

    I’m going to have to check out all your campgrounds in the event we ever get the chance to finish our northern trek, however, we don’t drive as many hours as you.

    Continued safe travels. So happy for you. ~vc

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    1. Do consider the trip. It's awesome. I have all the routes and campground info for always available upon request. LOL In Idaho right now.

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